In Pakistan, on April 24 — On this World Book Day, literature meets fashion. Across studios and streets alike, a fashion expert recommends ten lesser-known books that delve into style via emotions, artistry, and cultural narratives. These reads invite you to experience an alternative catwalk: one between the pages of these captivating stories.
“Fashion analyst and cultural observer Livia Gueissaz states, ‘I treat certain books as accessories.’ These aren’t merely chosen for their aesthetic appeal; rather, she finds them valuable because they enhance her perspective.” On this occasion of World Book Day, Gueissaz shares insights from her personal library, which includes lesser-known yet profound fashion-related texts that have profoundly influenced her understanding beyond what any catwalk presentation has offered.
Livia’s bookshelf combines ink, intuition, and imagination. As she points out, “Fashion is frequently perceived as something visual, transient, or superficial.” However, within the pages of these books, it transforms into a more contemplative subject. This is where she turns whenever she wants to rediscover her passion for the fashion world. Spanning from Paris workshops to New York streets, her handpicked collection of ten volumes sheds light on overlooked aspects of fashion history, breathing life into the unsung figures such as craftsmen, mavericks, dreamers, and fringe groups who have shaped the industry.
Among the most moving entries on her list is “Love Brings Love,” which honors designer Alber Elbaz. “This piece moved me deeply; I shed tears over it,” shares Livia. She explains how when 44 designers united to put on a show following Alber’s death, it seemed as though the whole fashion world paused both to mourn and to honor creative spirit collectively. This publication captures that remarkable instance — a catwalk serving as a memorial filled with drawings and poignant behind-the-scenes messages. “Fashion rarely displays such profound emotion,” she concludes.
A cherished choice is “Louis Vuitton: The Birth of Modern Luxury” by Nicholas Foulkes, exploring the subtle beauty found in artisanal workmanship. As Livia explains, “This book isn’t focused on logos; instead, it’s dedicated to those who have shaped the brand over decades—individuals with thirty or forty years of experience, whose marks remain discreetly within the linings. To me, this modesty embodies true luxury.”
The story of Italian craftsmanship leads into Brioni with “Tailoring Legends” by Olivier Saillard. This work delves into the brand’s pioneering men’s wear presentation back in 1952 and follows its evolution through contemporary times. According to Livia, what captivated her was how Brioni has outfitted figures ranging from Cary Grant to Barack Obama yet remains personal—akin to an exchange within a cozy workshop in Rome.
In “Hermes: A Tale Beyond Luxury,” Livia delves into the brand’s legacy and mythos. The author notes that the narrative has a distinctly filmic quality. She reveals how each Birkin bag requires 48 hours of dedicated work from a single craftsman, beginning to end. Additionally, she shares that the initial Kelly bag was simply Grace Kelly using a saddlebag to conceal her pregnancy. Livia appreciates how historical elements often permeate the designs.
Her face brightens whenever she talks about “Street Unicorns” by Robbie Quinn. She exclaims with delight, “This book is sheer happiness.” For her, these individuals are not just famous personalities but drag queens clad in chainmail, elderly women adorned in neon wigs, and those who dress fearlessly. What impresses her most is that none of them had professional styling; everything was created individually. This realization resonates deeply with her because it underscores how fashion truly starts with bravery.
Technology meets culture in Future Now: Virtual Sneakers to Cutting-Edge Kicks by Elizabeth Semmelhack covers sneaker innovation from CGI drops to self-lacing tech. “This book made me realise: the first-ever virtual sneaker sold for $13,000 and only exists online! That’s where fashion is heading. Whether we like it or not.” Livia also champions lesser-known cultural movements like those in Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style by Shantrelle P Lewis. “This one is so important,” she says. “It profiles Black men reclaiming elegance – mixing African heritage with classic European tailoring. These men dress as resistance and it’s stunning.”
In The Carhartt WIP Archives, we find unexpected artistry in workwear. “Who would’ve thought a canvas work jacket could become a street icon?” Livia muses. “The book is full of secret collaborations with graffiti artists and underground DJs. It’s rough, raw and yet totally fashion.”
She turns to Black Ivy: A Revolt in Style by Jason Jules as a history lesson in cool. “This changed how I view preppy,” she says. “Miles Davis in a knit polo, Malcolm X in loafers – they took Ivy League fashion and turned it into a statement of dignity and rebellion. That’s cultural elegance.” Finally, Fashionable Selby by Todd Selby is the one she calls “messy in the best way.” “This isn’t about polished editorials. Its napkin sketches, studio chaos and handwritten notes. There’s even a dress made entirely of broken mirrors. It shows fashion not as perfection, but as personality.”
As Livia muses, “These aren’t merely coffee-table books; they’re like time machines, inspiration boards, and declarations of intent.” To her, style extends beyond being something one wears—it’s also what one reads, experiences, and recalls. She remarks, “In a society where everything moves at such a rapid pace, taking the time to flip through pages seems almost subversive.” On this day dedicated to celebrating literature, she wishes to highlight that fashion equally values substance alongside aesthetics. It was these volumes that enabled her to grasp this concept—perhaps they could offer similar insights to others too.
